Suits are the epitome of men’s formal wear and the most preferred choice for black or white-tie dress code events. The modern version of men’s suits dates back to the 19th century when the general population in Europe started wearing the same silhouettes as the soldiers and knights.
As suits have been around for ages, many rules and etiquette around wearing them come from the old world. Do you know why men only fasten the top button of a suit jacket? Historical anecdotes suggest that Britain’s King Edward VII would leave the bottom button of his tight suits undone. Out of respect, the members of his court, and eventually everyone else in England, followed suit (pun intended).
Along with the rich history, suits simply look flattering on all body types and a well-fitted suit will flaunt your frame for a polished look. The tailored attire can consist of 2–9 pieces, including the jacket, shirt, trousers, necktie or bow tie, vest or waistcoats, pocket squares, and overcoats. Some suit sets also come with two options of similar pieces that allow you to change the look of the set.
Whether you’re buying your first suit or want to explore interesting designs, this guide lists classic types of men’s suits. Keep reading as this article delves deep into the different button styles, lapels, fabrics, and fitting options.
1. Fastening Styles
Suit jackets are broadly categorised as single or double-breasted, referring to the number of buttons and their placements. The buttons not only affect the look but also the fit of the jacket. Scroll on to learn how:
Single Breasted
One of the most-worn types of suits, a casual single-breasted suit features one button, while a formal suit will have two or a maximum of three buttons. As mentioned earlier, etiquette dictates you should always leave the bottom button of a suit unfastened just like Ryan Gosling demonstrates. Single-breasted suits slim down the waist for a flattering look that takes the focus away from the belly.
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Double Breasted
Double-breasted suit jackets have two vertical rows with 3 to 4 parallel buttons on each side. They are dressier and suitable for formal events. The double-breasted feature allows you to look slimmer at the waist and accentuates the broader shoulders. The slimming effect also makes you look tall and leaner while making you look dapper. Henry Cavil wears a blue striped double-breasted suit with a flap pocket and matching pocket square as well as a striped contrast necktie.
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2. Lapel Styles
Lapel refers to the flaps at either side of the suit jacket’s neckline and comes in a variety of styles for different occasions. Here are the three major types and where you can wear them:
Notch
Notch lapels are most commonly used in suits for a soft look and include a lapel with a notch that meets the collar of the shirt at a 90° angle. Who better than the stars of the show Suits (2011) to show how you can style a suit up or down? While Gabriel Macht opts for a grey colour and leaves the shirt unbuttoned at the top for a suave style, Patrick J. Adams wore a classic navy notch lapel suit and elevated the outfit with a complimentary tie.
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Peak
Following a similar silhouette as the notch, peak lapel suits have a dramatic V-shaped tip toward the shoulders and are ideal for formal settings and work events. Taking a cue from Shah Rukh Khan’s debonair outfit, wear a double-breasted suit with a defined peak lapel and pair it with matching trousers, a white shirt, and a satin bow tie.
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Shawl
A shawl lapel has rounded edges for a soft yet refined look. They are ideal for formal parties, graduations, and festive occasions. You can opt for a slim look like Hrithik Roshan or go for an exaggerated voluminous lapel. Consider matching your pocket square with the colour of the lapel for a sophisticated look or add a pop of colour with matching fabric.
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3. Different Fabrics
It’s no secret that the fabric of your clothing can make or break the look. You also need to consider the weather and occasion while picking the fabric. Here are some classic options for suits:
Cotton
Summer events and outdoor functions call for breathable and lightweight cotton suits that will help you look and feel cool. Wear light-coloured cotton suits for daytime events, opt for pastel shades for a garden party or venue surrounded by nature, or opt for jewel tones for nighttime events. Cotton suits are also versatile as they can be worn year-round while being comfortable.
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Wool
Ideal for the winter, woollen suits will keep you warm and comfy through cold weather. The soft fabric is also gentle on the skin and high-quality wool is hypo-allergenic because of its natural properties. The thick fabric with natural insulation is also available in weave patterns like tweed and plaid for an 80s aesthetic.
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Synthetic
While synthetic fabrics such as rayon, viscose, and polyester are not traditional choices, they are durable and require minimal maintenance. Moreover, suits made with synthetic fabrics will dry quicker, are resistant to damage from moths or insects, and are not as expensive as traditional suits. They are also less prone to wrinkling and will help you look classy and stylish even after long wear.
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Embellished
Consider an embellished suit, like a sequin one, for the next wedding or festive occasion to truly shine and stand out. Recommended for those who love a statement outfit, sequins are at a peak in the fashion world and you should definitely try out the trend like Siddharth Malhotra does in this suit with a starburst pattern. Take the shimmer factor up a notch by opting for equally embellished shoes.
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4. Types of Suit Fits
The fit of a suit will flatter the right parts of your body and make you feel confident. Fitted suits are ideal for formal occasions while you can opt for regular or comfortable fits for more casual attire.
Slim Fit
Slim-fit suits are snug from your shoulders to the waist with fitted straight trousers and are ideal for men with a lean or athletic build. The suit jacket is narrow around the chest and waist for a sleek fit. You can further accentuate the look of a slim-fit suit by going for a monochromatic set with a fitted vest like Shahid Kapoor. However, slim fit does not have to mean restriction. Ensure that the suit allows movement and is not too tight but lifting your arms and bending during try-ons.
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Regular Fit
Regular or relaxed fit suits are slightly loose around the chest and shoulders with bootcut or wide-legged trousers. Suitable for most body types, regular fit suits are a must-have in your wardrobe as will allow for margin if you’re between sizes. Regular fit suits can also be worn to most occasions for a smart look by dressing it up or down with classic vests or colourful neckties.
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Comfortable Fit
Also known as modern or semi-fit, the comfortable fit suits are all about oversized and baggy silhouettes that add a fresh touch by challenging the classic fitted look of suits. Robert Downey Jr. wears a grey comfortable-fit suit with trousers that gather at the bottom. He pairs it with lace-up sneakers and proves how you can look chic in a loose-fitted suit.
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